Sewing machine



NOV. 12, 1940. F ASHWORTH. 2,221,320

SEWING MACHINE v Filed Jung 2o, 1959 3 sheets-sheet 1 www Nn NNN wwwNov. 12, 1940. F. AsHwoR-rH SEWING MACHINE' Filed June 2o,- 1939 F.ASHWORTH lSEWING MACHINE Nov. 12, 1940.

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Patented Nov. 12, 1940 UNITED sTATEs .SEWING MACHINE Fred Ashworth,`Wenham, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Boroughof Flemington, N. J., a corporation o! New Jer- Sey Application June zo,1939, serial No. 280,138

17 claims. (ci. 11e-so) The present invention relates to sewing machinesof the type designed for use in uniting the top or-tongue part and thevamp or side part of a true or imitation moccasin or of a moccasin typeshoe. An example of such a machine is disclosed in U. S. Letters Patentof the present inventor No. 1,950,386 of March 13, 1934.

The objects of the present invention are to improve the construction andmode of operation l0 in a machine of the type disclosed in the patentreferred to, in such a way that a more satisfactory seam will be formedwith the exercise of less skill and ability on the part of the operatorthan heretofore required.

Before sewing together the top part and vamp of a moccasin or of amoccasin type shoe, the parts are beveled at an acute angle and securedtemporarily together, preferably with the surfaces along the bevelededges as closely as possible to the registering relation in which theparts are to be permanently sewed. In sewing the beveled parts of amoccasin with the use of the patented machine, the registering bevelededges are clamped between a work supporting block and a presser, theblock being formed with surfaces disposed atpan acute angle and withperi forations to receive the stitch-forming devices including a needlemovable across 'and at a xed distance from the apex of the angle of theblock.

With this arrangement the distance between the apex of the angularlydisposed surfaces ofthe block and the 4needle remains the same at alltimes while the moccasion parts assume positions along the angularsurfaces of the block determined by the engagement of the beveled edgeswith each other rather than by the relation of the extreme edges of theparts with the apex of the angular surfaces or with the needle.

40 For this reason, the distance between the extreme edges of the partsand the seam line where the parts are beveled sharply to a knife-likefeather will be greater than where blunter extreme edges are formed bythe bevelling operation. As a result, if the beveling operation isperformed in an irregular manner, the seam may not have a uniform orpleasing appearance. When the edges of the upper are extremely blunt,the upper may even escape the stitch-forming devices entirely so thatthe seam will be faulty. A further object of the invention therefore isY to provide a moccasin sewing machine in which the seam line will beguided at a uniform distance from the extreme edges along the bevels 55of the moccasin parts regardless of the thickness of the parts or of themanner in which the bevel on the parts is prepared.

With these and other objects in view, the present invention relates tothe provision in a moccasin sewing machine for inserting .a seam throughthe registering bevel edges of moccasin top and vamp parts in which aback gage is employed to guide the seam, of means for supporting andclamping the parts in angular relation to each other with the extremeedges along 0 the registering beveled surfaces in uniform engagementwith the back gage so that the seam will be guided uniformly along aline intersecting the surfaces of the levels. In the present embodimentof this feature, the clamping means comprises a presser, a work supportand a presserfoot, the work support and presser-foot being separable andhaving angularly disposed surfaces to receive between them the marginalportions of the moccasin parts, mechanism for actuating the presser andpresser-foot in the illustrated form of this feature being provided toclamp and release the parts during each sewing cycle. By such anarrangement, the angular space between the supporting surfaces of thework support and presser-foot may change as the parts are guided pastthe back gage so that when the extreme edges of the bevels becomeblunter the parts may hold the presser-foot away from the work supportand, when the extreme edges become sharper, the presser-foot will movetowards the work support without affecting the clamping action.

In the patented machine the presser Ais secured to a horn pivotallymounted to turn about an approximately vertical axis and, as themoccasin swings during sewing, the horn which enters the ankle openingof the moccasin is turned by the operator. According to a furtherfeature of the present invention, yielding horn turning means isprovided to assist the operator, the yielding means being held inactiveby a quickly releasable device.

Other features of the invention relate to Vim-v 45 provements in thepresser itself so that' as it clamps the parts it will conform withirregularities in` the thickness of the work, to improve-v ments in theconstruction of the horn to renderr it adaptable for use with a widerange of v50 moccasin styles and sizes, and tothe useof im- 'proved feedadjusting devices for permitting the" insertion of the initial stitch ina moccasin seam closer than heretofore to the end of the lregisteringportions of the moccasin parts. '55

In addition to the features above referred to, the present inventionalso consists in certain novel devices, combinations, and arrangementsof parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which willbe obvious to those skilled in the art from the following descriptiontaken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 isa view in side elevation of a portion of a machine embodying the severalfeatures of the invention illustrating the manner oi' operation on amoccasin; Figure 2 is a detail view of the work engaging portions of themachine illustrating the manner of operation on a moccasin ofsubstantially smaller size than that indicated in Figure 1; Figure 3 isa sectional plan view taken along the line 3-3 of Figure 1; Figure 4 isa view in side elevation of some of the parts illustrated in Figure 1 ona somewhat enlarged scale, and partly in section; Figure 5 is asectional plan View of some of the parts illustrated in Figure 4, takenalong the line 5-5; Figure 6h is a detail view on a further enlargedscale taken in section along the line 6-6 of Figure 5; Figure 'I is adetail view of a portion of the connections for adjusting the relativerelation of the presserfoot and presser as seen along the line 'I-'I ofFigure 4; Figure 8 is a detail plan view on an enlarged scale of theback gage in the machine; Figure 9 is a detail plan view, partly insection, of the feed controlling mechanism of the machine; Figure 10 isa detail view of the automatic feed controlling lever of the machinehaving its lower end indicated in section; Figure 11 is a view similarto Figure 9 illustrating a moccasin or 'the parts of the feedcontrolling mechanism in the positions which they assume during the rstsewing cycle before the needle i-lrst pieces the work; Figure 12 is adetail view on an enlarged scale of the work support and presser-foot inthe machine illustrating the positions taken during sewing of moccasinparts, the edges of which have been beveled to a sharp angle; and Figure13 is a similar View illustrating the positions taken by moccasin parts,the edges of which have been beveled at a blunter angle.

'I'he machine illustrated in the drawings is a lockstitch machine forsewing beveled marginal portions of the top and vamp parts of a moccasintogether with their beveled surfaces in registration and is similar,except as hereinafter indicated, to the machines disclosed in thepresent inventors prior patent above identified, and also in Patent No.1,169,909 of February 1, 1916. This machine is provided with a curvedhook needle 2, a curved awl 4, a rotary hook or loop taker 6 whichpasses loops of needle thread over a locking thread case, the needle andawl being actuated through suitable connections from driving shafts 8and I0, and the awl being arranged to move laterally while engaging thework to feed the work. The awl is secured to a carrier I2 (see Fig. 9)which is slidable and rotatable in bearings in the machine frame, theends of the carrier being engaged by connected feed levers I4 and I6fulcrumed on fixed studs I8 and respectively. The parts thus referred toand the other stitch-forming devices with their actuating mechanism arethe same as in the machines of the patents.

To prepare the edges of the moccasin parts, the parts are out at anacute angle, the extreme edges forming more or less sharp feathersaccording to the angle of the cut. The vamp part of the moccasin, asindicated at 22 in Figs. 12

and 13 in some cases is cut by means of a band knife while secured on alast so that the-angle of the bevel may vary at different points alongthe edge. After being cut accurately to shape, the tongue part,indicated at 24, is fitted against the vamp with the bevel surfaces inregistration and temporarily secured by cement until sewn. To sewmoccasin parts having bevels forming sharp angles, as in Figure l2, themachine of inventors prior patent has a solid work supporting blockprovided with a V-cut having angularly disposed work engaging surfacesso arranged that the extreme edges of the beveled moccasin parts extendto the apex of the V with the needle passing across and inside the apexof the angle of said surfaces. In sewing moccasin parts havingrelatively blunt angles, as in Figure 13 on that machine, the extremeedges do not extend to the apex of the V so that the seam is insertedcloser to the extreme edges than when there is a sharper angle at theedges of the moccasin parts.

In order to guide the extreme edges of the registering beveled surfacesof the moccasin parts 22 and 24, the machine of the present invention isprovided with a work support 26 having a back gage 28 mounted thereon, aseparable presserfoot, 30 and a presser in addition to the presserfootarranged-to act on the inner surfaces of the parts and to hold them withtheir edges against the back gage. foot are formed with work engagingsurfaces disposed at an acute angle with relation to each other betweenwhich the beveled edges of the top part and vamp are forced by thepresser and clamped in positions such that the needle will pass acrossthe apex of the angle. To enable the work to be guided by the back gageregardless of the degree to which the edges are beveled, thepresser-foot releases the moccasin parts during the feeding movements ofthe awl and clamps and holds the parts during the penetrating movementsof the awl and needle. Where the parts are beveled to a sharp extremeedge, the parts may be held against the back gage without moving thepresser-foot away from the work support, the relations of the partsbeing indicated in Fig. l2. Where the bevel of the parts is at a lessacute angle, the extreme edges are blunter and thicker so that theyseparate the presserfoot further from work support as indicated inFigure 13. By permittingseparation of the angularly disposed workengaging surfaces on the presser-foot from the work support withdifferent angles along the bevel of lthe parts, the distance between theextreme edges and the seam line is kept uniform.

The mechanism for actuating the presser-foot in this manner is the samea-s in Patent No. A1,169,909 and includes a presser-foot supportinglever 32, fulcrumed on a shaft 34, a link 36 connected bymeanshereinafter described to a downwardly extending arm of the lever 32and to a floating lever 38, a presser-foot locking device 40 pivotallyconnected to the central part of the floating lever 38 and a camactuated lever 42 connected adjustably through a link 44 with the upperend of the oating lever 38. The mecha-i nism is so arranged that whenthe awl and needle penetrate the work the presser-foot is locked inposition, the presser engaging and clamping the inner surfaces of themoccasin parts at the same time.

'I'he presser issimilar to that disclosed in the prior Patent No.1,950,386 and comprises a rotary disk having conical work engaging sur-The work support and pressera forwardly and downwardly curved horn 46.

' However, in place of the rigid metal disk of the patented machine, thepresent machine has a disk composed in part by a washer 48 ofcompressible leather secured between two circular metallic backingplates 50. .When irregularities in thickness of the moccasin partsoccur, the two plates may move slightly to conform with the `innersurfaces of the parts so that a rm grip will be-maintained at all timesVdrlfboth parts.

The horn is pivotally mounted on the present machine in a manner similarto that in the patent to turn freely about a substantially vertical axisat right angles to the line formed by the apex of the angularly disposedwork engaging surfaces of the work-support and presserfoot. The presserdisk 4is mounted on the horn in alignment with the pivotal axis of thehorn, the horn projecting through the ankle opening of the moccasin sothat when the moccasin is rotated as the seam is being sewed, the hornmay rotate on its axis to follow the movements of the moccasin.

The connections for supporting and actuating the horn on the illustratedmachine include the bracket 5I secured to the machine frame by a ,bon52x and a tubu1ar nxture 54 which 1s arranged'to receive an electricalheating unit for the loop taker 6. A pair of forwardly extending arms onthe bracket 5I form bearings for a shaft 56 having clamped to it a yoke58. The yoke 58 carries pointed pins 60 and 62, best shown in Figure 4,which form the pivotal mountings for a block 63 to which the horn '46 issecured.

To cause the presser to cooperate with the presser-foot in clamping andreleasing the work intermittently during the -sewing operation, theshaft 56 which supports the yoke 58 has at one end an arm 64 connectedby means of a link 66 with one arm of a three-armed lever 68 rotatableon the shaft 34. A downwardly extend` ing arm of the lever 68 ispivotally connected to the link 36 and is adjustably connected with thepresser-foot lever 32 so that when the presser-foot is actuatedcorresponding movements will be imparted to the horn and presser. Toactuate the presser-foot yieldingly against the work, the lower end ofthe floating lever 38 is connected through a link with a presser-footspring 12, the arrangement being such that when the device 40 isunlocked, the spring 12 causes the presser-'foot to engage Ithe workand, when the device is locked and the cam lever 42 actuated, thepresser-foot will release the work.

To cause the presser to be forced against the inside surfaces o f thetop andvamp parts with au iirm yielding pressure in the illustratedmachine, the force of the presser-foot spring 12 alone acting throughthe horn actuating connections with some types of work is insuiiicientlystrong and, consequently, there is secured to the end of the shaft 56opposite the arm 64, an arm 14 engaged at its free end by a compressionspring 16 supported on an adjustable screw stud 18 threaded in themachine frame. To prevent movement of the presser into the path of theneedle and awl, the yoke 58 has a finger which is engaged by a set screw19 threaded in the .bracket 5l.

With the yielding movement of both the presserand the presser-footsprings 12 and 16 acting to clamp the moccasin parts, the parts' aresecurely held in proper positions during passage of the needle` and awl,and irregularities in both l tance from the extreme edges ofthe parts.

the thickness and variation of bevel angle along the edges of the partsis taken care or. When the presser-foot is actuated to release theparts,

the edges -of theparts are readilymaintained' in guiding engagement withthe back gage. Thus the seam is inserted always at a uniform dis- Alsothe position of the back gage may be changed Without requiringcomplicated adjustments of the mechanism for actuating the presser andpresser-foot. i

To permit the position of the back gage to be changed readily, the backgage is constructed in the form of a lever fulcrumed on a vertical pin80 (see Fig. 8) secured in the work support. The back gage has a convexwork engaging surface opposite the point of needle operation, and tohold the back gage lever in adjusted position, the work support hasthreaded into it' a clamping screw 82 passing througha slot in the levervat the end opposite the work engaging surface.

That portion of the presser-foot directly above the back gage isrecessed suiliciently to clear the back gage and to allow the angularlydisposed 32 by'a screw 845I threaded in the downwardly extending arm ofthe lever 68 (see Fig. 7,). The inner end of the screw has projecting'from it an eccentric pin portion engaging a slot formed in thedownwardly projecting arm of the lever 32 so that, when the screw 84 i'srotated in the lever (i8, the relative positions of the levers will bechanged, a clamping bolt 86 in the A,lever 68 being provided to hold thescrew 84 in adjusted position. y

In sewing moccasins lof diiierent sizes on the machine of applicantsprior patent, it has been found necessary with different' sizes ofmoccasins to employ two or more horns having diierent curvatures, eachbeing adapted for use with moccasins within a narrow range of sizes.When a horn having one curvature is employed with a smaller size ofmoccasin than that for which it is designed, the heel portion of themoccasin strikes against the shankv portion of the horn and prevents themoccasin from being supported in the machine without distorting it fromits natural shape. If a larger size of moccasin is sewed, the tonguepart of the moccasin will be distorted. It is, therefore, necessary ltosubstitute one horn for another when sewing a full range of moccasinsizes. y

To permit sewing, on the machine of the present invention, a relativelylarge range of moccasin sizes without changing one horn for another, thehorn 46 is offset with a reverse curvature so that the offset portion ofthe horn may extend through the ankle opening of a small size moccasin(see Fig. 2), and may extend with the offset portion entirely inside alarge size moccasin, as in Figure 1, without distorting the naturalshape of the moccasin. When sewing a large size moccasin, the majorportion of the horn is enclosed within the moccasin, as in Figure` l, sothat it is, difficult for the operator to grasp and turn the horn on itspivotal mounting from the solid line position of Figure 4 to thedot-dash line position as the sewing progresses. To assist the operatorin turning the horn in the present machine, the block 63 on which thehorn is mounted has connected to it a housing 88 enclosing a helicalspring 90, one end of which is made fast to the housingand the other endto a sleevelike portion extending from a circular plate 92 clamped tothe pivot pin 60. The spring 3l tends to turn the horn 48 from left toright so that as the sewing progresses, the horn will a1- ways bemaintained against the right hand inner surface of the moccasin. Toprevent the horn from being rotated by the spring 90 while the moccasinis being applied to the machine and until the first few stitches areinserted, the housing 88 has a lug carrying a latch pin 94 arranged tocooperate with a latch arm 96 secured to a horizontal shaft 98 rotatablymounted in the bracket 5|. When the horn is in its extreme left handposition, the latch arm 96 holds the horn from turning movement, andafter the first few stitches are inserted in the moccasin, the operatoractuates a downwardly extending arm |00 rearwardly, which arm is securedto the shaft 98, and causes the latch arm 86 to be moved into thedot-dash position in Figure 4 out of engagement with the latch pin 94.`To maintain the latch arm 96 in latching position, a rearwardlyextending lug on the latch arm has connected to it one end of a coilspring |02, the other end of which is connected to the bracket 5|, andthe spring holds the lug on the latch arm in fixed position against astop pin |04.

Referring to Figure 11, the temporarily fastened moccasin parts 22 and24 are shown in the positions assumed just at the beginning of the firststitch in a seam. 'I'he shape of the moccasin tongue part 24 is suchthat with the parts in sewing positions, there is an open space |03between the tongue and vamp parts, at both ends of the registering bevelsurfaces thereof. Due to the fact that the awl of the present machine isactuated first to penetrate the work and then to feed a stitch length,it is difficult to apply the moccasin parts to the machine insuchpositions that the first stitch will be inserted close to one end ofthe registering bevel surfaces on the moccasin parts. If the temporarilyattached moccasin parts are applied to the machine, a stitch length awayfrom one end of the registering bevel edges, the presser-foot will notclamp the tongue part of the moccasin properly, and will displace it assoon as `the feeding movement of the awl commences. To permit the firststitch of a seam to be inserted close to one end of the registeringbevel'surfaces of the moccasin parts of the present machine, themechanism for imparting a feeding movement to the awl including thelevers I4, |6 is adjusted before the machine is started to move the awlinto line with the needle and to prevent a feeding movement of theawl-during the formation of the first stitch. As .described more fullyin applicants prior Patent No. 1,169,909 dated February 1, 1916, themechanism for actuating the feed levers I4, I6

comprises a toggle having pivotally connected4 members |06, |08 (seeFig. 9), the middle joint of which is connected by a link ||0 to one armof a bell crank lever ||2, the other arm of which provided with a roll||4 actuated by a cam on the main sewing shaft |0. To enable the feedmechanism to be adjusted, the member |08 of the toggle is pivotallyconnected to a yoke ||6 which, in turn, is pivotally mounted to turnabout an `axis ||8. By swinging the yoke about its pivot, the, positionof the toggle is changed so that more or less feeding movement isimparted to the awl. The pivot axis vof the yoke |I6 is arranged to beinline with the pivotal connection between the members |06, |08 whenthemembers are in their extreme rearward position and when the awl is atthe limit of its feeding movement. When the yoke is rotated on its pivotaxis, the extent of feeding movement impartedv to the awl is changed,but the extreme feedingposition of the awl remains the same as that inwhich the 4awl is in line with the needle so that when the yoke is movedto one extreme position, no feeding movement is imparted to the awl andthe awl remains in line with the needle.

, To change the position of the yoke on its axis, the yoke has an armconnected by a link |20 to a bell crank lever |22 which, in turn, isconnected by means cf a link |24 with a feed adjusting hand lever |26.'I'lie hand lever |26 extends over a. perforated gage plate |28 in whichpins may be inserted to limit the movement of the lever in eitherdirection. When the moccasin is applied t0 thegmachine, the hand lever|26 is moved to an extreme position in which n o feeding movement isimparted to the awl. As the machine is started with the lever in thisposition the awl pierces the moccasin parts. as shown in Figure 11, andwithdraws without feeding the parts so that the needle follows the awl,there being no movement ef the parts on the machine. Therefore, thetemporarily attached parts may be applied to the work support andpresserefoot in the exact positions at which it is desired to insert thefirst stitch, and relative movement of the tongue and vamp parts of themoccasin-are thus prevented. 'I'he hand lever |26 thereafter remains inthe non-feeding position into which it is moved by the operator untilthe first stitch has been completed, when it is automatically movedforward to its normal feeding position before the awl again penetratesthe work.

To automatically restore the hand lever to its normal feeding position,the link |24 is formed with a slot |30 (see Figs. 1 and 10) in which isclamped a bolt |32. Secured on the bolt |32 is a sleeve |34 having aconvex surface which enters a slot between the forked lower ends of acam lever |36. The upper end of the cam lever has a face arranged to beengaged by a cam |38 Vmounted on the shaft 8 of the machine, and thelever and cam are so constructed and arranged that when the hand lever|26 is in normal feeding position the upper end of the lever |36 liesjust beyond the path of the cam 38. When the hand lever |26 is innon-feeding position, the cam lever |36 through its connection with thelink |24 moves into the path of the cam |38, which then lies out ofposition to engage the lever. During the first revolution of the shaft 8after the machine is started, the cam |38 engages the lever |36 andactuates the same, throwing the hand lever |26 into normal feedingposition.

To assist the operator in applying the unstitched moccasin parts to themachine, the presser-foot and the presser may be moved away from thework support by treadle actuated connections separate from the drivingand stopping mechanism of the machine, which driving and stoppingmechanism is similar to that described in Patent No. 1,169,909. 'I'hepresser and presserfoot connections are best shown in Figure 1, and

comprise an upstanding slotted arm of the lever v 68, a rearwardlyextending rod |40 passing through the slotted arm and having a nut |42arranged to engage the arm when the rod is moved rearwardly, and a leverI fglcrumed on a shaft |46 at the rear of the machine, one arm of whichlever isY connected with the rod |40. Another arm of the lever |44 isprovided with a cam face |48 cooperating with a roll |50 on a pivotedarm |5| which, in turn, carries a set screw |52 arranged to engage apresser-foot unlocking lever |54. Loosely mounted on the shaft |46 is anarm |56 pivotally connected to a treadle actuated rod |58. When thetreadle rod |58 is pulled downwardly, a set screw |60 threaded in thearm |56 engages the lever I and causes the cam face on the lever toengage the roll |50 and, upon further movement of the lever l,the--presser foot and presser actuating mechanism is unlocked.Thereafter upon continued downward movement of the treadle rod |58, thelever 68 is rocked to raise the presser-foot and separate the presserfrom the work support.

'Ihe nature and scope of the. invention having been indicated, what isclaimed is:

1. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, a worksupport and a cooperating presser-foot having work engaging surfacesangularly disposed with relation to each other extending in thedirection of feed to support the bevel surfaces of the top and vampparts in registration, a back gage for guiding the extreme edges of theparts, stitchforming devices comprising a kneedle movable across andinside the apex ofthe angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of thework support and presser-foot, a presser arranged to act on the innersurfaces of the parts to hold the edges of the parts against the backgage, and mechanism for actuating the presser-foot and presser to clampand release the work including yielding means for actuating thepresser-foot against the parts, connections between the presser-foot andpresser and additional yielding means for pressing the presser against'the parts.

2. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, a presserprovided with ywork engaging surfaces angularly disposed with relationto each other to act on the inner surfaces of the top and vamp parts,stitch-forming devices comprising a needle arranged to pierce the workclose to the presser, a work support having a work engaging surfacecooperating with one of the -'surfaces ofv the presser, a back'gage onthe work support, and a presser-foot cooperating with the work supportand having a work engaging surface disposed at an angle with relation tothe work supporting surface of the work support to clamp the tongue andvamp parts with the extreme edges of the parts along thebevels inengagement with the back gage, said presser-foot being provided with acut-away portion to' receive the back gage when in clamping engagementwith the work.

3. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin.

tongue and vamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute anglehaving, in combination, awork support and a cooperating presser-foothaving work engaging surfaces `angularly disposedl with relation to eachother, extending in the direction of feed to support the'bevel surfacesof the top and vamp parts in registration, a back gage for guidingtheextreme edges of the parts, stitchforming devices. comprising a needlemovable across and inside the apex of the angle formed by the workengaging surfaces of the work. support and presser-foot, apresserarranged to act on the inner surfaces of the partsto holdtheedges of the parts against the back gage, mechanism for actuating thepresser-foot and presserv to clamp and release the work during eachsewing 5 cycle, and manually actuated means for disengagingsixmiltaneously the presser-foot and presser from the work to releasethe work from the machine.

4. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, a worksupport and a cooperating presser-foot having Work engaging surfacesangularly disposed with relation to each other to support the bevelsurfaces of the tongue and vamp parts in registration, a back gage forguiding the extreme edges of the parts, stitch-forming devicescomprising a needle movable across and inside the apex of the angleformed by the work engaging surfaces of the work support fand presserfoot, a horn pivotally mountedsto turn about a fixed axis, a presserhaving work engaging surfaces rotatably mounted to turn on the -hornabout an axis inv alignment with tle horn axis and shaped to co- 2,5operate with the surfaces of the work support and presser-foot to holdthe tongue and vamp parts in position for passage of the needle,yielding means for rotating the horn about its pivotal axis, and aquickly releasable device for holding the yielding means inactive.

5. A sewing machine for u'niting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an' acute angle having, in combination, a worksupport and a cooperating presser-foot having Work engaging surfacesangularly disposed with relation to each other 'to support the bevelsurfaces of the tongue and vamp parts in registration, a back gage forguiding the exy treme edges of the parts, stitch-forming devices 407comprising a needle movable across and inside vthe apex of the angleformed by the work engaging surfaces of the work support andpresserfoot, a horn pivotally mounted to turn about a fixed axis, apresser having work engaging surfaces rotatably mounted to turn on thehorn about an axis in alignment with the horn axis and shaped tocooperate with the surfaces of the work support and presser-foot to holdthe tongue and vamp parts in position for passage of the needle,yielding means for rotating the horn about its pivotal axis, and amanually releasable latch for holding the horn in'an extreme positionagainst rotation by the yielding means.

6. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, Y

a Work support and a vcooperating presser-foot having Work engagingsurfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other to support thebevel surfaces of thetongue and vamp parts in registration, a hornpivotally mounted to turn about a fixed axis, and a disk-shaped'presserhaving work engaging surfaces rotatably mounted to turn on the hornabout an axis in alignment with the horn axis and being formed in partby compressible material to cause the presser to conform withirregularities in eective thick# ness ofthe moccasin parts.

7. A sewing machine for uniting' moccasin 70 tongue and vamp partsformed with edges beveled at an acute anglev having, in combination, aWorkv support and a cooperating presser-foot having Work engagingsurfaces angularly disposed with relation to each other to support the'75 registration, a horn pivotally mounted to turn about a fixed axis,and a presser having angularly disposed work engaging surfaces formedwith metallic backing plates and a compressible member inserted betweensaid plates to permit the presser to\ conform with irregularities ineffective thickness of the moccasin parts. y

8. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges bev- -eled at an acute angle having, in combination,

means for supporting the tongue and vamp parts in angular relation toeach other and with the bevel surfaces in registration extending in the`direction of feed, stitch-forming and work-feeding devices comprising aneedle and an awl movable across and inside the apex of the angle formedby the parts arranged to imparta feedring movement the length of onestitch to the work when the machine is started, means for adjusting theWork feeding devices to' prevent feeding movement of the work until thei'lrst stitch is inserted and to cause normal feeding movement of thework feeding devices to be restored after the first stitch in a seam.

9. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, means forsupporting the tongue and vamp parts in angular relation to each otherand with the bevel surfaces in registration extending in rthe directionof feed, stitch-forming and work feeding devices comprising a needle andan awl movable across and inside the apex of the angle formed by theparts arranged to impart a feeding movement the length of one stitch tothe work when the mack-ine is started, means including a slotted linkfor adjusting the work feeding devices to prevent feeding movement ofthe work, a clamping bolt having a convex bushing adjustably 'secured inthe slotted link, and a cam lever having a slot for receiving the convexbushing to cause normal feeding movements of the work feeding devices tobe restored after the first stitch in a seam.

10. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, a Worksupport and a cooperating presser-foot having work engaging surfacesangularly disposed with relation to each other -to support the bevelsurfaces of the tongue and vamp parts in registration, and a back gagein the form of a lever fulcrumed on the work support with a curved workengaging surface at one side of the fulcrum and a set screw threadedinto the work support` at the other side of the fulcrum engaging theplate to secure the work engaging surface thereof in xed position`on thework support.

11. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination, means forsupporting .the tongue and vamp parts in angular relation to each otherand with the bevel surfaces in registration extending in the directionof feed, stitch-forming and work-feedlng devices comprising a needle andan awl movbevel surfaces of the tongue and vamp Aparts in tongue andvamp parts formed with edges beveled at an acute angle having, incombination, stitchforming devices including a needle, a back gagearranged to guide the seam inserted by the needle along a lineintersecting the surfaces of the able surfaces for supporting thebeveled marginal portions of the parts with 4the surfaces of the -bevelsin registration with each other and for clamping the parts with theextreme edges of the bevel surfaces uniformly in engagement with theback gage.

13. A sewing machine for uni-ting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination,stitch-forming devices including a needle, a back gage arranged to guidethe seam inserted by the needle uniformly along a line intersecting thesurfaces of the bevels on the moccasin parts at a xed distance from theextreme edges of the bevel surfaces, andymeans comprising a presser, awork support and a presser-foot for clamping the parts with the extremeedges of the bevels uniformly in engagement with the back gage, saidwork support and presser-foot having angularly disposed work engagingsurfaces to support between them the beveled marginal portions of theparts with the surfaces of the bevels in registration.

14. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination,stitch-forming devices including a needle, a back gage arranged to guidethe seam inserted by the needle uniformly along a line intersecting thesurfaces of the bevels Yat a fixed distance from the extreme edges oflthe bevel sur-,- faces, means having angularly disposed relativelymovable surfaces to support the beveled marginal portions of the partswith the surfaces of the bevels in registration with each other, andmechanism for actuating said means to cause the angularly disposedsurfaces to clamp the parts uniformly in engagement with the back gageand release the parts during each winding cycle.

15. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination,stitch-forming devices including a needle, a back gage arranged to guidethe seam inserted by the needle uniformly along a line intersecting thesurfaces of the bevels on the moccasin parts at a fixed distance fromthe extreme edges of the bevel surfaces, means for holding the moccasinparts in operative position in the machine with the surfaces of theirbevels in registration comprising a presser, a work support and a,presser-foot having angularly disposed work engaging surfaces, andmechanism for actuating the presser-foot relatively to the work supportduring each sewing cycle to clamp the moccasin parts with the extremeedges of the bevels uniformly in engagement with the back gage. r

16. A sewing machine for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination,stitch-forming devices including a needle, a back gage arranged to guidethe seam inserted by the needle uniformly alongva line intersecting thesurfaces of the bevels on the moccasin parts at a fixed distance fromthe extreme-edges of the bevel surfaces, means for holding themocextreme edges of the bevels uniformly in casin parts in operativeposition in the machine with the surfaces of their bevels inregistration comprising a presser, a work support and a presser-foothaving angularly disposed work engaging surfaces, and mechanism foractuating the presser and presser-foot relatively to the work supportand to each other during each sewing cycle to clamp the moccasin partswith the engagement with the back gage.

17. A sewing machine 'for uniting moccasin tongue and vamp parts formedwith edges beveled at an acute angle having, in combination,stitch-forming devices including a needle,

a back gage arranged to guide the seam inserted' by the needle uniformlyalong a line intersecting the surfaces ofthe bevels on the moccasinparts at a xed distance from the extreme edges of the bevel surfaces,means for holding the moccasin parts in operative position inthe'machine with the surfaces of their bevels in registration comprisinga presser, a work support and a presser-foot having angularly disposedwork ensupport and presser foot towards the back gage to hold themoccasin parts securely in proper positions during passage of theneedle,

FRED ASHWORTH.

